Finishing up the work for North’s January issue, The 50 to Watch in 2004. One interview I did was Gavin Kaysen, 24 year old Sous Chef at El Bizcocho in Rancho Bernardo, that could whip all the masters on Iron Chef. He created a wonderful meal complete with my first taste of Egg Mousse with Citric Caviar served in a real eggshell opened at the top, cuddled by two red rose petals and squared off by sprigs or rosemary. Also a first that night: 3 different styles of oysters. And I can honestly say I liked one of them very much. His staff obviously adores him and couldn’t stop telling me nice things about him as I ate lamb loin rolled in truffles. The dessert, not to be outclassed by the food before it, was served on a marble slab and included a chocolate mousse ball with a Crème Brule center and a scoop of apricot sorbet. My meal was accompanied with wines chosen by the staff and Gavin. The entire meal was an orchestra to my taste buds. Not a surprise, I suppose, when you take into account that he was the first chef from the U.S. to compete in France for Le Trophy in 26 years and the youngest to ever compete. And he won 1st in fish.
