Red Poppies Play Quilt

Delaney is a 1-month-old of a friend of mine and she’s cute as a button. This play quilt is for her: red dots, red poppies, crisp red and white solids – it a lovely combination.

A play quilt isn’t big enough to be a sleeping quilt for a baby much past a few months, but it’s the perfect size to put on the floor for the baby to lay on and play with a few toys. It’s also the perfect size for car rides placed over the baby’s car seat to keep out the sun or as a top layer over the stroller.

It has good padding and a soft side that feels wonderful against your skin.

This is the same red poppies print from the clutch purse the other day, and the end of that fabric, except for some very small remnant pieces. I’m sad to see it go, but it couldn’t have gone to a cuter baby.

Red Poppies Clutch and Matching Bird’s Nest Pendant

One of my favorite commissions yet is this adorable clutch purse made from bright red poppy fabric and lined with plush wine velvet.

The black wooden handles are something I’ve never done before but I hope to do again, as they are fun. The lovely lady who commissioned the piece wanted some sparkle, so I added the beaded fringe.

It has a magnetic closure. I didn’t intend it to be, but it’s almost reversible: poofy and fun on one side and plush and sleek on the other.

She also wanted a matching Bird’s Nest Pendant, so we went with red and greens in Czech glass against silver plated metal.

I Made Curtains and Recovered the Ottoman

The curtains have a body of very thin muslin to let in a ton of light. We only have windows on one side of our condo which creates a real lighting problem. It gets very dark towards the back end and our previous curtains were so thick that it just felt like a cave in here. I really wanted more light to come in, hence the thin fabric. It was also only 1.99$ a yard, plus I had a 50% off coupon, so score! 12 yards cost me 12 dollars.

The top part of the curtains are a reversible silk I’ve been carrying around in my stash for about 5 years. Silk isn’t really fun to sew with. I’m still finding strands of fray all over the house, but I really love the contrast of fabric type with the muslin and it looks pretty even from the outside balcony.

I used basic bias tape for the rod straps. It saved me a lot of time and headache that would have come from trying to get 25 strips of silk to play nice and I think it matches the roughness of the muslin. I made five of these panels.

Recovering the ottoman took about an hour. The fabric was a steal at 75% off. It was a full yard for about 12$ and I’ve got some left over for something else fun.

Mend it Better Book Giveaway!


Thanks to everyone who entered!

Congrats, Jerusalem. I’m emailing you now.

Want to win a copy? See below!

Kristin Roach has written this adorable book called Mend it Better. (Publisher, Storey Publishing) And I’m in it!

The book has full-page color photos and easy to read, step-by-step instructions:

I first met Kristin when I asked her to participate in a craft panel at Blogher in ’07 that I moderated. I wanted her to be a part of it because of her passion of reusing and finding new ways to look at waste and crafting.

Part of her creative journey, which she recounts in the book, is receiving many of her Grandmother’s sewing and craft supplies. It’s a beautiful story. I love how Kristin takes something like patching your clothing, which some people might find embarrassing, and turns it into something not only practical, but beautiful. Wear your patches with pride, indeed!

If you’re into sewing, great writing, inspiration and information, this book is for you.

Check out the Mend it Better website. Want to win your own copy? Leave a comment with your favorite color. Winner to be chose at random. Ends Friday the 16th at midnight, PST.

How-To Craft, 2-Tiered Flowy Blouse


I found some sheer white fabric for about a dollar a yard and bought a bunch. I thought it would make a great top and decided to make it two layers so you couldn’t see through it anymore, but it still looked flowy and airy.

I made a pattern from a loose-fitting tshirt.


I folded the top and arms in right above the bust line.


Then I drew line around it, marking how big it was.


I added 4″ inches to the top, 2.5″ to the sides and 3″ to the hemline, extended the pattern, cut it out then pinned it to the fabric. Because the fabric was so sheer, I cut through four layers of fabric at once. But it’s tricky, so do that at your own risk.


Next time, I won’t add anything to the hem and keep it just what it is. Because when I layered the panels, the bottom layer ended up being about 7″ too long and I had to cut it off. The top layer was three inches too long (how much I added) and I had to cut it off.


I sewed two pieces together to form a shirt front and back and then I did the same with the other two panels. After turning them both so all the seams were on the outside, I took one panel and put it over the other panel, pulling it down 3 inches and sewing in place. Then I turned it right sides out to make sure it looked good on the outside.


As you can see in the photo below, the inside layer is now 3-ish inches longer then the outer layer.


Next I rolled the top down in thirds towards the inside, creating a tube inside where the neck strap will go later.


I pinned it and sewed it down next to the seam I sewed to place the inner panel lower than the outer panel. HINT – after pinning, sew it with the outside up so you can make sure the seam is straight and looks good from the outside.


Then I cut a button hole shape near both side seams and used no-fray to seal the edges.


To make the neck tie, I cut a 3″ by 8′ long strip and folded in half. I pinned and sewed down the long side and one short end. I used a ruler to create an angle line, sewed and trimmed.


Using a thin wooden spoon, I turned the strap right side out then top stitched the seams I had sewn, closing the open end as I went.


To place the strap, I placed a large safety pin on one end and took the strap all the way around, pulling it out the same hole I sent it in to. Then I took the other end and pushed it through to the other hole. Imagine a pretzel crossing in front and going out each hole. When you’re done, you should have the strap going completely around your back, crossing in the front with the ends coming out the holes.


I tried the shirt on, cinching the strap tight until it felt snug but comfortable around my back and neck. After tying it, I checked the length in the mirror. This is where I cut off the fabric as I described before. After I shortened it, I used a straight stitch at 1/4″ from the edge and a tight zigzag to finish, not rolling or folding for the hem. If you own a serger, you could use either of those stitches to create a clean edge. Since I don’t have a serger and I’m ok with a little unfinished look on this shirt, I was fine doing it that way.


It’s cool and summery and flows nicely.


How-To Craft, Sew a Pencil Skirt


Remember that pattern you made last time? Get it out because we are going to use it to make this really cute Pencil Skirt. We’re going to modify the pattern just a little, so go grab your yard stick along with your scissors and pins.

Lay your pattern flat and measure in from the outside (not the fold side) 4″. Take your yard stick and make a line from the Hips line to the new mark and fold it. Cut your fabric out using the new line.


Go ahead and make the skirt the same way you did for the A-Line skirt. I got fancy and used a cording for the waist instead of bias tape.


For the hem, we’re going to fray instead of sew. Try your skirt on in front of a full-length mirror and check the length. You won’t be sewing any up in a seam allowance, so if it’s too long, mark it will a pin and cut it off.


When you have it where you want, do a straight stitch all the way around the skirt hem about 1″ above the edge. Use scissors or a seam ripper to cut up to the line, but not go through it. Take your fingers and pull the cross threads out all the way around. Look! How cute!


How To Craft – Sew an A-line Skirt (in 1 Afternoon!)


It’s hot. I mean, really hot. And I get tired of wearing jeans. And I don’t own any light-fabric, easy-going-long skirts that are perfect for summer. So, I made one. And you can, too! The fun thing about this skirt is you can make it for a toddler or all the way up to women’s plus size. It’s all the same pattern. And, don’t worry if you don’t have a lot of experience. If you can sew a basic line on a sewing machine, you are fully equipped to make this A-line skirt.

A-Line Skirt

Experience level – Beginner
Supplies –

For pattern – Measuring tape, straightedge ruler, pen, paper cutting scissors, tape or staples and 2 paper bags or wrapping paper or brown package mailing paper.


For skirt – 2-3 yards of washed and dried (to allow shrinking) fabric (depending on how long you want your skirt) (If you’re making a skirt for a small person, measure the length, double that number and add 3 inches. That is how much of a yard you need.) and matching thread, 2-3 yards of matching double-fold bias tape, good fabric cutting scissors, no-fray sewing glue, pins and a large safety pin. EDITED TO ADD – For this skirt, the fabric should be a lighter flowy cotton and not a stiffer fabric like shirting fabric, which holds its shape.

Step One – Take Your Measurements.

Take the tape measure and measure around your waist which is the smallest part of your body above your hips. Don’t suck your tummy in, just stand normally. Write that number down. Now, measure your hips/bum. Really, we want the biggest part of your lower half, so if it’s your bum, do that, hips, do that. Write that number down. Place the measuring tape at your waist on either your left or right side going downward and measure the distance from your waist to where you took your hips/bum measurement. Write that number down. Last, measure your length. If you want a floor length skirt, measure from your waist to your ankles. If you want a knee skirt, measure to there etc. Write that number down.

And now for a little math. (Don’t worry, it’s not hard and you can use a calculator if you want. I’ll do an example for you below.
-Take your waist number and add 3″. Then, divide that number in 4ths.
–If my waist number is 38, then 38+3=41, divided by 4 = 10.25 or 10 and a quarter inches.
-Take your hips number and add 3″. Then divide that number in 4ths.
–If my hips number is 43, then 43+3=46, divided by 4 = 11.5 or 11 and a half inches.
-Take your skirt (knee or floor) length number and add 2″.

Those are your pattern numbers which means now you need a pattern! Which is super easy! Yay!

Step Two – Make Your Pattern

Roll out your wrapping paper (plain back side up) or brown packaging paper or tape/staple two opened brown paper bags together width-wise and create a large rectangle.



You need enough paper to go a little longer than your skirt length. Using the straight edged corner of the top and top left side of the paper, measure in with the straight edge and place a mark for your waist. Measure down the left edge of the paper using the number you measure between your waist and hips and make a mark. Measure in from that mark with the straight edge and make a mark for your hip number.


Last, measure down the left edge of the paper until you reach your length measurement and mark it. Using your straight edge, measure in 28″-30″ and mark it. This is about half the width of a yard of fabric, which come in 45″ or 60″.

Looking at your paper, you should see a slant forming with your marks along the right side of the paper. Using your straight edge, connect those dots and make a nice slanted line. Mark the left long side with the word FOLD. Look! You made a pattern!! So, cut it out and get ready to roll!


Step Three – Cut Your Fabric

Lay your fabric out flat, keeping it folded in half like it comes off the bolt, with the fold on the left. Now bring the bottom up to the top, creating four layers of fabric in a large rectangle. (IF YOU HAVE A PATTERN ON YOUR FABRIC that only goes in one direction, cut your fabric in half at the bottom and make sure to turn one panel over so both panels go the same direction, keeping the folds on the left.) Place your pattern on top of the fabric with the FOLD side snug along the left side and pin in place, putting pins through ALL layers of paper and fabric.



Cut along the pattern, saving fabric remnants for another craft. (Which will be coming in the next few weeks!) Put all the paper clippings in the recycling bin, because we are earth-friendly that way. Unpin the pattern and SAVE the pattern for later. We’re going to be doing a few more skirts with some fun variations and you don’t want to have to make that pattern all over again. Phew.

Step Four – Sew, So Easy

A. With RIGHT sides of fabric together, place one panel on top of the other one, matching up waist and bottom edge. Pin along panel sides, placing pins about 6″-9″ inches apart.


Hopefully, your machine is threaded and ready to go with a matching thread, because I really can’t help you there.



B. Place fabric under foot with raw edges on the right, keeping sides lined together as you go. TIP* Run the fabric back and forth a few times at the beginning and end of each seam to make your skirt stronger and less likely to fray. Keep the raw edges of the panels in the same place all the way down the seam, about 3/4″ in. Cut threads.


Now, bring the side back to the same place you started the last seam, and go along it again using a zig-zag stitch. This will secure the threads and help your seams stay put. Do the same for the other pinned side.

After removing all the pins (as you sew or afterward), look at your seams and give yourself a little pat on the back. You win! You did it!


C. Let’s move on to the waist. for this edge, we’re going to do the zig-zag stitch first. Place the fabric, raw edge to the right, with just a scant 1/8th of an inch beyond the needle. We want that stitch to be as close to the edge as possible without going off. Cut threads.

Making sure the skirt is still RIGHT sides together (you should see all the seams on the outside) turn the top zig-zagged edge down towards you about 1″ or so and pin all the way around.



With fabric under the foot, folded edge to the right, sew a straight stitch completely around the waist. Unpin. Turn fabric right-side out (all seams should be on the inside now). Sew another seam about 1/4th of an inch away from the other seam towards the top edge of the waist. This strengthens the sewn edge of the waistband, so when you slide the drawstring back and forth a million times over the life of the skirt, it won’t come undone or fray.


D. Grab your no-fray sewing glue and some sharp pointy scissors.


Using the side seams as a guide, find the exact center of one panel, declare it the front, and cut a tiny slice in JUST THE FRONT OUTSIDE PANEL big enough for your bias tape and safety pin to go through. Put some drops of no-fray around the hole you just made, pushing it around all sides of the hole until ALL threads have been glued.


It doesn’t need to be thick, but it does need to reach every thread. You can wait for the glue to dry before proceeding, but I never do. It dries clear, so if it gets on the bias tape, it’s not really a big deal to me.


Slide on end of the bias tape on the safety pin, close, and push it into the hole.


If you’re right handed, you’re going to want to push it to the left side, scrunching as you go to work it all the way around. If you’re left handed, go to the right. When the pin makes it all the way around and back to the hole, push it out and pull the bias tape until both sides are the same length.


Tie a few knots on the ends to keep the tape from accidentally going back inside the waist casing.

Try it on! Dude! Did you know you rock? Way to go! At this point, you want to make sure the waist fits well (it should gather slightly all the way around) and that your drawstring is a good length (not too hangy, not too short). After that, check the length. Man, I need a pedicure.


E. Stand flat footed in front of a full-length mirror and see where the bottom hits you. If it’s about an inch or so too long, that is perfect. We’re going to use that much in the bottom hem. If it’s longer than that, You’re going to need to chop some off, leaving about an inch longer than you want the finished length to be. Go ahead if you need to do that. I’ll be here when you get back.

All good? Great! This is our last step before you look cute as a button. (Except you already do, I know that. The skirt just enhances your button-cuteness factor.)

F. We’re going to put a zig-zag stitch all along the edge of the bottom, just like we did for the waist. When that is finished, pin the bottom edge under about an inch all the way around. With the right side facing up and the folded edge on the right, sew a seam about 3/4″ inch in. Then go around again about 1/4″ towards the bottom.


Snip those threads, and YOU ARE DONE! Grab a drink and relax for the evening. Maybe watch the sunset. And then do the dishes. Or is that just me?

Take a photo, if you want, and send me a link to post!